Gucci invites S.Korean artist to horsebit 70th anniversary exhibition

The Gucci horsebit loafer, one of the most iconic products of the Italian luxury brand, is celebrating its 70th anniversary.

The horsebit loafer is famous for its horsebit decoration on the center of the instep. Derived from the metal horse's gag (horsebit), the horsebit remains an iconic symbol of the brand to this day.

To celebrate the 70th anniversary of the horsebit loafer, Gucci announced on Monday the launch of the Gucci Horsebit Society, a two-day exhibition in Italy. The exhibition aims to trace the origins of the horsebit embellishment while reinterpreting the tradition in a contemporary way.

The exhibition featured works by 10 artists from around the world, including South Korean artist Gyu-han Lee. He presented his interpretation of the horsebit using the Korean paper craft.

Aldo Gucci, the son of Guccio Gucci, the founder of Gucci, is credited with inventing the horsehair ornament. He was inspired by the metal clamps used on horses' reins.

The first product to feature the horsebit was the 1953 horsebit loafer. The horsebit loafer became popular for its casual yet elegant design.

It was considered a progressive design that broke away from traditional dress codes and was a favorite of movie stars of the 1960s. Francis Ford Coppola, Fred Astaire, Alain Delon, and other "cultural icons" of the time were known to wear horsebit loafers. In 1977, actress Jodie Foster, then a teenager, was spotted skateboarding in a pair of horsebit loafers.

The horsebit loafer has remained a Gucci staple ever since, with new designs to keep up with the times. The 1980s saw the introduction of a version aimed at the emerging career woman, while the 1990s saw the design adapted to the sensual style that Gucci was pursuing at the time. In the 2010s, the loafer became a hit with its fleece-covered slipper design. 

The horsesbit embellishment was first used on loafers, and in 1955 it was applied to bags. One example is the Gucci horsebit 1955 bag, which is considered Gucci's signature bag. Today, it is also used on boots, sandals, wallets and gloves.

The exhibition also served as an opportunity to introduce the Gucci spring-summer 2024 men's collection to the public during Milan Fashion Week. The collection was first unveiled to the press at Spazio Maiocchi in Italy on March 16.

Write to Ji-Yoon Yang at yang@hankyung.com